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Question: Rick, Why don’t you tell us more about the balls and the layouts you are using for different guys?

Rick: Don’t forget we are in a competitive environment. I will leave the interpretations for others.  Good ball reaction never changes… how we accomplish it changes all the time. Layout and ball selection is only a part of the equation.

Question: What is the difference between a pin up drilling and a pin down drilling?

Rick: Generally speaking a pin up ball will respond to the drier part of the lane quicker. A pin down drilling will react smoother to the friction. I will use the choice with a combination of ball selection and cover-stock preparation to match up with the bowler and lane play strategies.

Question: How important is surface preparation in your considerations?

Rick: Right up there with which hand do you bowl with? J Nothing is more important than surface prep. Slight changes in the surface can be very dramatic on the lane or through the pins.

Question: Most of the layouts you use seem to be around the finger holes, I am told I shouldn’t do that?

Rick: Warranty issues do not apply on tour. Times are changing. It use to be the average tour player had PAP’s in the 5 ½ inch range or more. Now the average tour PAP is around 5 and that has preferred pin to axis distances very close to the grip line. Higher pins seem too sensitive to tour transitions and too low can be too smooth. I don’t have much of an option from there. If I have to slug it when and if it breaks out I will deal with that then.

Question: How do you use wt. holes?

Rick: I use holes to affect the dynamics of the ball design. Major consideration has to do with what I am drilling out when I use a weight hole. Will the hole be drilling out a heavier or lighter density? The basic idea of a weight hole is reshaping the core and repositioning the densities inside of the ball. I use the basic concept of flare increasing and decreasing holes that can be found on the Brunswick drilling instructions and web site. Don’t forget that drilling the gripping holes effects the shape and densities as well.

Question: What is more important dynamics or surface preparation?

Rick: I consider it to be relative to the amount of rotation. Obviously dynamics would mean nothing if the ball didn’t rotate. As soon as  the ball begins to rotate the more important dynamics become. The faster it rotates it is amplified even more. Being that most every bowler’s ball rotates during the 60 feet of lane... dynamics are a factor. Bowlers should not think that stronger cores and stronger covers mean stronger ball reaction. Matching the right dynamics, and surface with a given player and condition takes experience. Both are important but the lower rev rates should focus on cover-stock choice and surface prep first. The biggest mistake I see in today’s game is bowlers trying to create down lane reaction the wrong way. Too strong, actually hooks less down lane. Look for the right balance for your game and your environment.

Question: I am trying to create the strongest down lane reaction I can get, what ball and layout should I use?

Rick: This is the number one question a pro shop operator gets. Bowlers seem to think maximizing the hook of the ball will make them strike more and score better.The reality is "Good ball reaction starts with control and predictability". There is a balance of all. If a bowlers angles on the lane do not match up to the conditions and transitions they will not score as well or strike near as much. But if a customer insists on maximizing down lane hook I would first make sure I watched the bowler bowl in their environment and start with ball design choice.

The first consideration is cover-stock choice. Most of the time, a reactive ball will provide a stronger DOWN LANE reaction than a particle ball. Most of the time, a higher pin in the 4 to 4 ½ inch pin with a wt. hole off the axis will be the layout option for the lower rev rates. As the rev rate increases the pin to axis distance will increase proportionally. Asymmetric balls can help increase down lane reaction at weaker pin positions which is often necessary to create DOWN LANE reaction. It is very easy with today’s balls to think you are creating a stronger DOWN LANE reaction, when in actuality you are creating sooner reaction with less DOWN LANE reaction. It is very valuable to find a qualified pro shop operator who is willing to take the time to find the right match up for you. Too much surface friction means less DOWN LANE reaction. Surface choice and flare are the main considerations don’t over due it.

Question: Dear Rick,

Again, I love the site, and happened to come upon this other new interactive part and I did have a question which has been with me a while and I am sure you can help.

While I understand what symmetric and asymmetric mean in general, what do these terms mean for a bowling ball, and how does each affect ball reaction? The Inferno line vs. the Zone line for example.

Thanks again for the great info.

Douglas Burkett

P.S. On the photos on your site from the Atlanta Classic PBA event, you put a photo of me up on the site and I thought that was pretty cool. I am the large guy in the orange shirt with the ‘PBA…The Real Super Bowl sign’. It was nice to see my sign appreciated and up on the site..

Rick:  Doug, the difference in symmetric vs asymmetric in bowling balls has to do with the core design. If you were to cut the core in equal parts through the center of the core dimensions, the parts would be equal in densities and shape side to side. In an asymmetric core you will find that these parts will not be equal in densities, shape or both. For years we have seen the top and bottom of cores that provide differences but as cores developed a pin was used to indicate the middle of the core shape side to side. A ball driller would use this pin to understand where the core was positioned relative to the bowlers ball track. Asymmetry can be created in several ways.

 Many times asymmetry is created with an added density inserted to one side of an otherwise symmetrical core. Other times the shape of the core creates the asymmetry. The Zone core is an example of this. The orientation of the elliptical shape core (relative to the bowlers ball track) changes as the ball track flares around the ball. The type of asymmetry can create dramatically different effects.

 The more unstable the density is relative to the ball rotation the quicker it effects the track flare and motion of the ball. I can not group all asymmetrical balls together. The Zone core is an example of asymmetry created with shape. When we are working with the Zone core we are working with a single density core, the secondary pin (small pin) indicates the elliptical orientation not the location of a higher density material. The biggest difference and most common  usage of the asymmetric core is noticed at weaker pin positions. This is because you can dramatically vary the amount of flare.

With a symmetric core a ball driller is limited to small degrees of differences in flare that can be altered with pins in weaker positions. Asymmetry widely increases the options. By repositioning the secondary pin in different locations a huge difference can be seen in flare and ball motion.

 You can see the difference in the cores by comparing the difference between an Original Inferno and a Classic Zone… an Absolute Inferno and the Vapor Zone… an Ultimate Inferno and the Strike Zone. I will use the Inferno core to provide slower transitions and the Zone core to create quicker transitions. I have the ability to increase and decrease both with layout tweaks but the separation is really noticeable at weaker pin positions.

Question: When do you decide when to alter the surface as opposed to going to a stronger cover?

Rick: In my opinion cover-stocks identify their usage through transition. So I select the cover-stock based on the reaction characteristics through transition and I use surface prep to provide the amount of overall friction a given player needs. Sometimes they overlap but not most of the time. Some people thing stronger means more friction others thing stronger means more DOWN LANE hook. I am more interested in how a cover reacts to friction rather than oil. All balls skid in the presence of oil, even balls that are hooking are skidding. We use this skid to help us attack the higher friction portions of the lane. How much skid we want and the reaction characteristics to friction is what I am looking at.

Over a period of time I learn how to use the transitional characteristics of a given cover-stock to manipulate a bowlers angles in a favorable way. Trying to use angles on the lane that don't match up to the transitional characteristic of the cover-stock and the other elements involved (ball roll, surface, pattern, transition and breakdown) is a common mistake. I see wide differences in transitional characteristics of cover-stocks so the answer to your question is not as simple as you would think.

What you think is stronger in your environment may actually be weaker in my environment. But once I understand the transitional characteristics of the environment, I can match that up to the transitional characteristics of the cover-stock then tweak it with dynamics and layout options. Surface prep is always a key factor.

Question: I work in a pro shop and have a very good understanding of ball reaction, rg's, differentials and coverstock combinations, and most drillings. the drilling that has always confused me is the rico drilling. My question is what is it? I've always thought that it was a pin under the thumb drilling, similar to a drilling for a full roller. But, have become confused because most people say rico is pin in the center of your grip. What is the correct answer, and what are your thoughts on the drilling? I appreciate your time and effort spent on brunswick insiders. You are very knowlegable and have a lot to offer.

Rick: I don’t know where the term Rico drilling comes from nor do I use it. I have read threads on message boards referring to this term several times. I have come to believe they are referring to a pin in the middle of the grip with the CG or mass at 45 degrees with a hole in line on the bowlers VAL. The same threads like to refer to the pin below the thumb as the Patrick Girard funky drilling. We ball drillers seem to have a language of our own don’t we.

Question: What is the biggest difference between the coverstocks used on the Absolute and the Scorching Infernos?

That is the purpose in having both hook potential and arc shapes on the Ball Comparison Chart. Every bowler should understand their own arsenal relative to shapes and over all friction. They will vary relative to bowlers and environments, but don't fall into the trap most bowlers do and have too many balls that have the same characteristics. It is hard to compete with your putter on the tee box and putting with your eight iron isn't easy either.

Question: A lot of drill sheets mention drilling like 2 inch pin to paps to control the back ends.  Or pin axis drillings, seems like in the transition and when you are totally lost in a match, this type of layout might save the day.   As long as you match the surface of the ball to the amount of oil you will see, it seems like it would work.  Also, why don’t you seem more of the weaker mid priced balls with stronger layouts used?  Thanks.

Your guys did really well this week.  I have always paid attention to what Sean Rash did at ABC’s and other tournaments and it was amazing to see him win yesterday.  Keep up the good work.

Rick: I like to use pins closer to the axis to assist players who are having problems matching up their angles to the pattern. When a bowlers angles are too open for the pattern and transition I will consider using pins closer to the axis to square them up. The challenge of these layouts is how quickly they see the oil going down the lane. As much oil as we see going down the lane we have trouble getting the two inch pins to hit. With the types of rev rates on tour the fronts don’t hold up if you are in the same area as the majority of the field. Two inch pins become more conditional because of this environment.

 As far as the mid-price balls being used, this year we are seeing more success with the Activator base covers. They match up to the transitions the best. We do use the Punisher, Rampage and Ambush at times but the Nemesis and Goliath are not getting much use right now. The higher friction covers that arc down lane are great to square up to the lane with but the tour break down transitions are easier to follow with the Activator bases. Until we see a wider variety of transition on tour we will continue to use the Activator bases. I have a few of the other balls on the truck but until I see something different I need the available space for the covers that have proven themselves. My eyes are open and ready for something to change, when and if it happens.

Question: First off, I enjoy your website a lot. I really enjoy the pics of the balls used during the week. My question is about Fagan’s layouts. I know he tracks low and I also track that low. Our PAP is very close to the same, I don’t have his rev rate though. With the spin, it creates a lot of backend reaction for me. My question is, the layouts he uses with the pin on the left side of his grip, what type of reaction does that create and what type of drilling would you use to get early roll?

Thanks for your reply,

Carl 

Rick: Carl, there are a lot of  bowlers with Mike's PAP but I don't know of any that have those coordinates with his ball circumference and rev rate. Mike is one weird bird. Mike's track circumference is very large.

As far as your question about pins on the left side of his grip, always think about how far the pin is from your PAP and understand how that effects the overall flare. Many bowlers with these types of coordinates never find out what a 4 1/2 to 5 3/4 inch pin to axis placement will do for them and when they decide to try an asymmetric core they have the mass located  very close to their VAL. I highly recommend that a bowler with these axis coordinates take the time to experiment with more options. You will usually realize more retained energy and allow you to use some stronger cover-stock options that are available in today's balls.

To create early roll you need to change your roll (assuming you have a small circumference track). If can do some things with ball selection and layouts that will create the visual of early roll but be careful it may not hit. I like to start with layouts that allow a bowler with a small circumference track to use stronger covers. Give an Absolute with a 4 1/2 to 5 inch pin below your fingers and a hole 2 1/2 inches down from your axis point a chance. Use surface prep to match up with your environment.

Because a lower track players ball is sensitive to higher and lower friction characteristics of lane conditions and transitions they really should focus on keeping the ball on line for as long as they can and try and get their ball to release energy through the pins. I am very impressed with how this type of ball roll mixes the pins, don't try or expect your ball to roll through the pins and send rockets across the lane.

If you want heavier roll. Check out your swing, chances are your ball is swinging outside of your shoulder pivot forcing your ball to turn your hand. Another thought process that has shown success is to think about throwing a backup ball. Somewhere between what you are doing and a back up ball is a heavier roll. It will feel weird but most lower track players couldn't throw a back up ball if they wanted to.

Question: Rick,
Can you do a comparison between the AMBUSH and the retired HPD or offer any
suggestions for a ball to replace an HPD?

Many Thanks,
Jay

PS: Love Brunswick Insiders!

Rick: The comparison between the HPD and Ambush is pretty close. I haven't seen the two on the lane at the same time but they are both light load particles with similar numbers. I wouldn't expect the Ambush  to be as archy as the HPD. The reactive bases of the Ambush and the HPD are different. The closest reactive base with similar numbers that compare to the HPD would be the Proactive Groove. The core shape is dramatically different with the Groove but it would be and inexpensive way to see if the cover-stock is the dominate factor you are looking for.

Without knowing more about you game and environment the other ball I think you should consider would be an Ultimate Inferno. If you liked the shape of the HPD I think you could get an Ultimate to be close and as the cover-stock absorbed more oil it would actually start to look more and more like the HPD. Out of the box it might look too strong but an oil soaked Ultimate would probably be real close for you. Hope this helps but make sure you run this by a qualified pro shop operator who knows your game and environment.

Question: Mr. Benoit,
Hi. I wanted to write to you to see if you might be able to answer a few questions for me. I realize how hard it is to answer me exactly without seeing me bowl but I need help. I sometimes bowl with and used to help out Chris Loschetter with Tom Reid at Oberlin College Lanes. He talks about you a lot so I thought I would ask you about this.

Last night when I was bowling, I took out 5 pieces of black tape from the back of my thumb hole. It worked ok for a few frames then I had to add more tape because the ball seemed too loose on my thumb for me to make good shots. After the ball hanging on my thumb for a few shots I took out more tape. I then went through a full approach trying to release the shot as normal, but the ball didn't budge at all. I managed to stay upright and didn't hurt myself.

1. Why would there be so much change in my thumb from frame to frame?
2. How should the ball feel on my thumb as far as tightness goes? I usually like it fairly tight but obviously not as tight as it was last night, more sense of control.

I am using a Hammer Raw Doom that Chris gave to me. I love the ball. I am scoring well when I can put a good roll on it. I have been the Bowler of the Year at Oberlin College Lanes the last 4 years in a row and I need to bowl well to make it a fifth year in a row, it means everything to me. Any help that you can would be tremendous.

Thank you in advance for your time,
Kyle

Rick: It is not unusual to see bowlers with hands that go up and down. First I would consider if something is going on that you are not aware of. Maybe something you are doing is effecting your hand. Cold or hot drinks, you know what I mean. If you need to keep the swelling down you might consider keeping something cold in your hand that will help keep the changes to a minimum. Don't over look anything you might be getting moisture on your hand. Obviously there are things that are designed to help these circumstances, the hand drier, hand conditioners and grip sacks. My guess is at this time you have learned to bowl with a thumb size, span  and pitches that will allow you to clear the thumb hole. The number one question I always want to answer when looking a bowlers hand is how are they going to hold on to the ball. I know of a combination of 4 elements that can be used. They are Span, Hole Size, pitches and texture.

I prefer to see a bowler us a tight thumb hole from front to back with a little room on the sides to clear. I also want to see a bowler griping the thumb hole with the thumb bone not the sides of the thumb. Shape, size and texture to allow the middle of the thumb to hold on to the ball not the sides. You will probably notice that when you let the weight of the ball swing you will fill a lot of pressure on the corners or edges of the thumb. Try to relieve this towards the center or bones of the thumb not the flesh.

I also have to assume you have had several experienced professionals take a look at other options with your grip. Another thing to consider is your swing tempo. An inconsistent swing tempo can make the consistency of the grip feel very different. Bowlers at your level like to seat their gripping hand in the ball differently to create different reactions. Maybe your grip will not allow you this versatility. I can't e-fix it but hopefully something I have mentioned will help you and your local professional help you solve the problem.

Question: I have one for you Mr. Benoit. I'm starting to hear that alot of the pros are either staying at 16lbs or moving back up to 16lb equipment from the 15s. Off the top of my head I have the list of these players, Duke, Voss, Bohn, Traber, Steelsmith, Scroggins, Machoga, Mike Wolfe, Delutz and probably more. Is this just a personal feel issue in the players games where it's just been the weight they have always used or does the heavier ball match up their speed to rev ratio much better.

I can tell from my own game that the 16lb ball matches up my speed to rev ratio better and I see an expanded pocket and much more hit at the pins. I see the ability to play tighter lines and less overall hook and head belly needed because of the reduced rev rate and the better match up. I've seen much greater things in my own game since making the switch back up in weight.

I would imagine the reduced speed from the extra weight is more of a positive on the longer and thicker oil patterns, especially for the guys who like to stay and play more direct.

What are you seeing out there as far as the ball weight vs player style vs patterns vs carry precentage.

Thank you for reply!

Keith

Rick: Keith, Changing weights in the middle of a competitive season is not done very often but if it is done it is usually because of a physical reason, meaning players going down not up in the middle of a season is more common. But as far as ball weight options there are still a small percentage that use 16 lbs. This is usually a personal preference directly related to the same details you are seeing with your game. I have never suggested a bowler make a change (in the middle of a season) to create specific roll characteristics. Do that and an entire arsenal would have to change. Another consideration is not all companies have dynamic integrity between weights, there can be a difference in dynamics when you change gross weight.

I do agree with you that a difference can be seen and the decision should be made in preparation for the season and a commitment to that decision should be maintained. Confusion is the biggest reason for failure out here on tour.

Question: Hi Rick,

How do you layout the "girard" drilling?

Thanks,
Rich

Rick: I know what you are talking about but when you use those terms very few others know what you are talking about. It makes me laugh when you say the "Girard " drilling because it makes me remember how unique Patrick was. He was and assume he is still a raw natural talent. You make me think that I need to get in touch with him because I got an e-mail telling me he is going to get serious again and wanted to get an idea on some things he can work on. Sorry for not getting back with you Patrick if you read this.

The so called "Girard" funky drilling is not as new as some would think. The idea is to reverse the direction of the flare. Instead of the flare rotating over the finger holes it will rotate under the thumb. This creates a different motion on the lane, through the pins and during transition. Instead of using the bowlers PAP we use the NAP and use those distance measurements to control the amount of flare. We will usually use distances from 4 1/2 to 6 inches from the NAP. It is important that you understand the ball will flare in a different direction and many bowlers will thumb the thumb hole. Controlling the "bow tie"..."stationary point" or what ever else you want to call it, is accomplished by moving the pin up or down. I use a theory given to me by Ray Edwards several years ago. It has worked so far. I draw a line from the pin to the PAP and make sure this line stays over and inch below the back side of the thumb. I usually tell people an 1 1/2 just to be safe because I have drilled several that the inch rule did not work for. You will find that usually limits the pin to NAP distance a bowler can use.

All I can tell you is that it is different and it requires different transition tools. You can hook it but I suggest you use it to stay up the lane it carrys better. When you leave a four pin and think you want to move left consider throwing it harder first. Use it wrong and you will figure out how to leave a corner pin on almost every shot.

Question: Hello Mr. Benoit. I get a lot of my equipment drilled by Dave Krueter in Cincinnati. Dave has worked the Brunswick booth for a few years at Nationals. I have had decent success with BVP punisher and have drilled a few more Brunswick balls. Pictures enclosed. I have never seemed to match up well with any of the Inferno line while it seems every other person on the planet kills with them.

Ball speed 18-19
Rev Rate 350-400 RPM
Tilt 15-20 Degree
Rotation 30-45

Out of all the balls shown above only the Impulse Zone has shown any hint of success. I want a medium lane ball for more direct shots and then something to open up the lane when I am forced deeper. Every ball has rolled great just either burned up or seemed to weak when used on a heavier condition to negate the roll out / burn up issue.

Don

Rick: Don, I looked at all the pictures you sent me and I have seen many higher rev players use these types of layouts to control the over reaction they experience with normal layouts. The type of carry can go from being very good to very bad with these options. I hope you are not locked into these options. I like having them around for the fresh or when ever they allow a bowler to square up their angles but carry and transition are usually a problem when they do not work. It is my experience that the real fix is physical and not something I can fix with a layout. They control the pocket but if you have to strike a lot then the frustration mounts.

I have never seen you bowl and it may be unfair to assume but I hope you find some value in my assumption. Chances are you hit up on the ball and your swing is getting outside of your shoulder pivot. Your body build may be very tight in through the shoulder and back area and not allowing you to stay inside of your shoulder pivot. If possible try and get further inside of your shoulder pivot and make sure the elbow stay there all the way through the hit zone. I may be asking too much but that is the easiest fix most of the time. If that is not a quick enough fix. Try getting the ball forward and onto the index finger. Get it off of the palm. What ever it takes to get it there, you will realize the benefits especially through transitions. You can still bowl the way you do but when early hook and flat hits become the issue try this tool and see if it doesn't help.

OK now back to balls. you are stabilizing the core very quickly with these layouts and by the time the ball gets to the pocket there is not enough core energy left to get the ball to not send the 3 pin too straight back. If you can get the head pin off the side wall and back to the 10 it is OK but the flush hit doesn't send the head pin to the ball and the light hit is too close to a bucket or 2-10 to rely on it. Try using the reverse flaring technique discussed in the previous question. You should be able to use pin to NAP measurements that are greater and get the jerk out of the motion.

Question: Rick,

I'll throw a quick one at you. Sean's ball from Sunday:

http://www.brunswickinsiders.com/PBATour/PBATournaments/2006tournaments/Parkersburg/parkersburgphotos/rashballs.jpg

Where is the CG? I am seeing a lot of balls of your staffers using this or similar to this layout. What are it's benefits?

Thanks,
Jeff

Rick: Jeff,  The CG is in the positive and thumb quadrant about 1 3/8 inches over and 1 inch down. The pin to axis distance for sean is around 5 inches (Sean's PAP is 4 9/16 over and 5/8 up) The idea to create flare separation around 5/16's of an inch with more of an arch shape instead of a snap. Lowering the pin helps arc out the characteristics of the ball and the pin to axis distance creates the flare separation. The hole down opens up the flares after postioning the pin in a more stable position off of Sean's hand. If Sean had a lower rev rate I could have placed the pin closer to his axis point. You see alot of these types of layouts on tour because they are less sensitive to lane to lane differences and transitions.

Question: If a ball is rolling out, which will help make it more continuous... a flare INCREASING or flare REDUCING x-hole? Does it depend on the bowler and the shot? If so, how? Thanks !!!

Also, I know flare increases overall hook, but will more flare result in earlier or later hook? Where on the lane does flare affect hook? Thanks again :)!!!

Sincerely,

Dan

Rick: That is not a fair question Dan. Rollout means your ball has already reached its stable position. Every ball thrown would eventually roll out if the lane was long enough or the friction were great enough. Roll any ball on the carpet you will see what I mean. For a ball to hook you better not be creating too much friction. Believe it or not hooking balls are skidding, you can see this better from the pins than you can the foul line. Increasing flare increases friction..

I have to tell you that your statement that increasing flare increases overall hook is incorrect. increasing flare increases friction. Increasing friction many times causing a ball to not hook because it isn't skidding. I am guessing that you are over doing the friction aspect. Consider a different cover-stock option so you can use flare. You don't want your ball rolling over too narrow of flare rings. If your flare rings are exceeding 5 /16 of an inch you might consider reducing the flare so it can skid. Remember a ball that is truly rolling does not hook. You need some skid even when it looks like it is rolling.

Question: I know I’m an idiot, but I’m trying to take seriously the opportunities to ask when I get them.

Is confidence born or is it learned?

How in the heck do you get yourself not to over-think everything on the lanes (i.e. – what is the easiest way to “keep in simple’?)

You rock, Rash…great job bro!

Tim

Rick: "The only difference between confidence and cockiness is how loud you talk" Inner conversations need to be pretty cocky to be confident on the outside. Train yourself to combat the negative thoughts and doubts. Confusion is the biggest challenge in bowling. Knowing too much with out really know it is the number one reason for confusion and I know you Tim. You know too much to go backwards. The next step is to realize the there are too many variable to think you can control them so just get yourself in the right frame of mind and get it close. The number one tool in bowling is between the ears. Understand YOUR ball roll and develop tools around it. There are alot of tricks to manipulate carry but you have to have angles and ball rotation that match up to your enviornment.

Proprietors put out conditions that adapt to the natural body mechanics. Great bowlers have body mechanics that are not natural to the majority. Check out the tempo, shoulder pivot, swing plane and where the swing weight is relative to these elements and you will find some helpful tools. A profile view and a rear view of these elements helps you understand wher the energy transfers are effected. Pretty and natural works at some levels but we have to train our bodies to make the unnatural feel natural. Then it feels simple.

Question: Good Morning Rick:

First I would like to say thank you for taking the time to report each week and show us how you are laying out the balls. This is great information and extremely helpful to us little people.

Question - On todays regional PBA patterns, if you were to use the scorching inferno and smoking inferno as transition balls from wet to medium-dry, and only had one of each, what would be a good way to lay them out so that they could be used on most of the patterns. Lets assume a standard type bowler with a 17 mph ball rates and medium track flare. A tweener type player.

Thanks again for everything you are doing.

Eric
 

Rick: Eric, I will give it a try but that is not a simple question.

Scorchin Inferno: I love the smoothe characteristics of this ball I would play to them. I would use a lower pin (just below the fingers) at 4 1/2 inches from my PAP. Chances are I would have to alter the surface to somewhere around 2000 or 4000 Abralon. Any duller and it will make me want to hook it and I don't think this smooth of a reaction is meant to be hooked.

Smoking Inferno: I love this cover on poorer surfaces. I have other options on slicker surfaces but it is the first one out of the bag on medium to old synthetic surfaces and wood surfaces. This ball as been very good with several layouts on those types of surfaces. When I try and use it on slicker surfaces it is best used with slower ball speeds. Slower ball speed players don't use the mid-lane as well so I would typically have them use a higher pin somewhere in the 5 1/2 inch range and a big hole on the axis. The further pin to axis distance allows the bowler to slow down because I am sure there is going to be oil down lane and tweeners only have so many revs to call on. The hole on the axis will smooth out the jump characteristics of the cover-stock. Surface prep will vary dramatically because of the slower speed and oil down lane. I probably would start with 1000 Abralon and adjust accodingly.

I hope that helps Eric it is a shot in the dark but that are my first instincts and I learned a long time ago that I am better off trusting them.

Question: Rick,

I am looking for help for my son and willing to pay for it. Here in my town there is no one worth anything in the pro shop business (no one measures layouts from the axis point). While I understand how to layout a ball, I don’t have the knowledge to match layouts, covers, weight blocks against conditions. My son needs some help with his grip as well as he struggles with a sweating thumb. If you can or would be willing to assist and/or know of someone that you would recommend I will be extremely grateful. I am tired of wasting money and time. I have sent my son to many classes including some very reputapal places and everyone raves about him. But he is being help back by his grip and equipment and still averages in the 220’s (at 19).

Concerned Father

Rick: Concerned Father,  I know where you are coming from. It can be very difficult and frustrating. Our teaching environment in the sport of bowling is so relative. Results are always relative to environments. Great in one environment is only mediocre in other environments. The only answer is experience and knowledge. It sounds like you are taking the right steps in getting your son the type of experience he needs. Don't let an average fool you. I am sure you are aware of how decieving they can be. I suggest bringing your son up in a competitive environment that he realizes success. At the ulitmate level of our sport you must have confidence in your self. Balance this confidence out with gradual doses of knowledge and experience. Too much information without real knowledge can lead to confusion. There are a lot of peopel who sound like they know what they are talking about. Realize that we have to evolve with the sport and adapt to whatever environment they throw at us.

Real bowling knowledge starts at the pins and comes back from there. While your son is learning teach him how to have fun with the pins. Not just throwing strikes but have him understand how to effect his ball roll in small increments to get the pins to react differently. There is more than one way to strike can your son call his shot. Can he call a weak 10... a ring 10... a 4 pin... all from the same spot on the lane. Have his be able to control the head pin. See if he can't learn to send the head pin off the 2 pin into the left sidewall and back across the lane at the 10 pin. See if he can control the 6 into the 10. Even though most bowlers don't strike that way they think they do. Try to control the 6 off the right side wall and back into the 10. That is the highest strike percentage in today's environmnet.  Don't use the house shot to cheat the game. Feel is everything at the elite level of our sport. Transitional moves are based on angles and creative feel. Get your son off of a house wall and develop a range of feel tools that he has confidence in and he will be way ahead of what he can learn in a weekend long instructional clinic. I think it would be great if you can associate your sone with an experienced coach and I love those challenges but time is not easy to come by. Maybe somewhere down the road we can meet but until then bet you son to learn how to manipulate the pins and develop an inner confidence.